We debated a little bit about whether to leave India or remain just a bit longer to see the state of Kerala. I am so glad that we decided to stay. Our 10 days in Kerala were relaxing, fun, and most of all allowed us to experience a different side of India. The state is unique in many ways. It is physically beautiful, situated on long sliver of the southwestern coast of the country, with endless beaches alongside red-rock cliffs and coconut trees everywhere. Over 95% of the population is literate and gender equality has been a prominent goal of the state. Over the last 60 years since independence, the Communist Party has retained most of the popular vote. Nima plans to describe more about this in the Kochi section so I'll just tell you a little about our days there.
Leaving our family and saying bye to the almost two months of time we had together was sad. On the plane ride we already began reminiscing. I think I have said it before: we are really grateful for this time that we had. But, as the plane began its descent over the sea of coconut groves and we spotted the waters where the Indian Ocean and Arabian Sea meet, we started to smile. We arrived in Trivinathapuram (though our luggage didn't) but headed straight out to the beaches at Varkala about 70 km to the north.
The place we stayed in was a wonderful gem. The four modernista-inspired cottages were built about one month before and they turned out the be one of the only available rooms in town and quite a steal.
We loved it. The crimson and celadon fresco on the ceiling, the clay walls, the oil lamps, and the mosquito net cascading over the exceedingly comfortable bed made this place beautiful. The bathroom with a grass floor and open rock tiled tub added an air of freshness. Oh, and then the veranda, overlooking the beach and the ocean...eating fruit, reading, and listening to the waves crash--I am soothed as I picture it again. Our time in Varkala was spent walking along the beach below the cliffs and past so many fishing boats, all of which felt like a secret getaway as it was so easy to escape the tourists and tread a seemingly untouched coast. We ate great seafood, read a lot, and slept well.Our next stop was Allepey. A wonderful town on the backwaters, it is known mainly for its lovely views from a houseboat. Backwaters are a series of natural canals that connect rivers and lakes and cut through serene villages.
Small fishing boats are the main form of transportation and the villagers live a truly relaxed life. The houseboat itself provided a wonderful space to view the lush surroundings. When our houseboat parked at sunset, a young man rowed up to us in a canoe and asked if we wanted a ride. We weren't ready to call it a day so we hopped onto his boat and he took us through smaller canals while introducing us to his friends as we passed by. Meanwhile he described his life growing up in these beautiful village islands - how people here are content while Westerners and city-folk live a "pill life". In the background we heard the music from a nearby temple where they were starting the Sivarathri celebrations. After the canoe ride we asked if we could go into the village to the temple, so he parked the canoe and took us on a stroll through his hometown. After a brief visit to the temple (where Nima banged his head against an iron fence), Shyam invited us into his home. We met his grandparents, who were very sweet. Shyam started blasting his favorite Malayalam songs (Indian decibals) while his grandfather and Nima took shots of rum. 
Our night back on the houseboat added the final sense of repose to our first few days in Kerala. In the morning, with Nima periodically punting the boat - basically using a large bamboo pole to propel the boat forward, essentially the old-fashioned way of moving these rice barges down the river - we returned to Allepey to head further north.
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