Our time in Thailand was short so we did not quite get off the beaten path. But, we did head up north instead of heading off to the beaches. Chiang Mai is Thailand's second largest city, less congested than Bangkok and less tall but definitely still large- three days did not do it justice. We arrived in peak season without a place to stay but ended up at a nice lodge at the edge of the Ping River. Nima still had some work to do so Srini and I went for a long walk and wandered into the old town which is surrounded by somewhat intact walls with four entry gates. By the time we arrived, many of the small shops and stalls were closing so we headed back towards the eastern side of town and the Night Market. The Night Market is full of food and clothing stalls and tons of tourists but still a fun place to walk around. We grabbed Nima and went to the seafood market to pick some fish for dinner. It was steamed at our table in a steel pan with peppers and ginger. Food played a much larger role in this part of our trip with street noodles, Tom Yum soup, and seafood being staples of our diet. We walked along the market for a couple of hours after dinner before we crashed for the night.
We spent out second day about 50 km away at the Doi Inthanon National Park. On our way there we stopped at a beautiful Wat with a golden Chedi all in classic Thai buddhist architecture. The number of temples is amazing. They adorn many streets with small shrines on many corners and at the entry to many Thai homes.
Doi Inthanon is a large protected park leading up to the peak, the highest point in Thailand. The mountain, named after the last king of Chiang Mai, is the source of many rivers and therefore waterfalls. It is home to a variety of birds and animals as well as beautiful Rhododendrons. Before heading off on the Kaew Mae Pang Nature Trail we had a delicious meal of grilled chicken and sticky rice and tried to learn a few Thai words from the kind woman at the grill. The trail took us through a dense cloud forest for about and hour or so. We didn't see much of the wildlife but could hear it above and below us. Perhaps the most amazing part of the trail was the transition from the cloud forest to the mountain savannah. It was a sudden change, from tall evergreens to the brownish grasslands, dotted with only occasional trees- rhododendrons are in season and added bright burst of red to the landscape. The openness of the savannah over the next couple of km allowed us distant views of the valleys below, green and lush, dotted with villages. It was a beautiful walk and quite a breath of fresh air after the urban days of Bangkok and Chiang Mai.
Our last couple of hours at the park were spent at the Twin Chedis built in honor of the king and queen on their respective 60th birthdays. The Queen's chedi was a mosaic of beautiful purple tiles with a serene Buddha standing within. The grounds of both were beautifully landscaped. After a stop at the Vachiratharn Waterfall we headed back to the city. We had a nice dinner at the riverside and another relaxing night.
Our last day in Chiang Mai was our most fun. On the recommendation of our friends Jen and Scott we signed up for a one day course at the Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School. I wish we could have taken the full five days of lessons that they did, but our day was focused on Thai ingredients so we felt like we got a great introduction. The Master Chef Sompon Nabnian started the day with an explanation of herbs, sauces, and curry paste. We smelled and tasted three three types of basil, kaffir lime leaves, ginza, lemongrass, turmeric, fish sauce, and shrimp paste. Then we started cooking (and eating). Our cooking stations with large woks and gas flames were set up outside under the roof. Nima, Srini, and I were lined up on one side. Our first lesson was Tom Yum soup.
Chef Sompon made it look easy and it definitely tuned out to be easier than we thought. But it was our introduction to rapid-fire cooking as we tried to add all the ingredients before the high flames burned the food. Srini's soup was the tastiest and the spiciest. Before each dish we were taken into the classroom and the chefs taught us the ingredients and we tasted their delicious examples. We raced to write down the recipes and order of the ingredients. In the end Srini's soup, Nima's Pad Thai, and my green curry could of made a fairly good meal. We enjoyed the food in the company of some nice people from the UK and New Zealand. We ate and ate, all day to the point where we couldn't entertain the thought of dinner. Luckily all of us have an extra dessert stomach so we could indulge in some chocolate later in the evening. Our time in Chiang Mai was relaxing and tasty, even if it was a bit short.
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